ISM Virgin Peaks Expedition 2024 - Tien Shan Kyrgyzstan

ISM trip report of our trip into the Tien Shan Mountains, Kyrgyzstan.

Trip Leader & IFMGA Guide: Adrian Nelhams (AN)

IFMGA Guides: Tommaso Dusi (TD)

Climbers: Jason Sheldrake (JS) Harry Wilson (HW) John Vincent (JV) Rami Bibi (RB) Dave Webster (DW) James Lamb (JL) Andrew Crawford (AC)

1st Porter, BC Help & Climber: Monty Nelhams (MN)

2nd Porter: Misha.

Cook: Eirlam

Drivers: Nikoli, Alexy, Sasha & Yura

Trip Diary

25 August: Everyone arrived in Bishkek the capital of Kyrgyzstan. Tommaso and I headed to our ground agents ITMC to finalise kit and any last minute planning, whilst the team headed into the city to have a look around the bustling markets and to take in some of the cultural sights which gives Kyrgyzstan it’s heritage.

26 August: We took a minibus from Bishkek to Karakol which is the fourth-largest city in Kyrgyzstan, near the eastern tip of Lake Issyk-Kul.

27 August: We finished loading up four '4WD UAZ' vehicles with food and equipment, left Karakol and headed into the Tien Shan mountains, starting our journey into basecamp (BC). We stopped and camped en-route at an elevation of 3200m to help with acclimatisation.

28 August: We packed up camp and continued the drive through to where we decided BC to be which was at 3330m. A beautiful and remote place, close to the confluence of two valleys and surrounded by snowy high peaks and glaciers. We spent the afternoon getting organised and setting up BC.

29 August: For the first time ever, we had some bad weather! In the morning we hung out at BC making the place comfy and then headed out in the afternoon once things had cleared a little and stretched our legs walking up a nearby hill, to get some better views of the surrounding peaks and glaciers.

30 August: To help acclimatisation further and to also help get a sense of the area and what possibilities there might be, we headed out to climb one of the peaks close to BC as a day hike. AN, RB & AC climbed the unclimbed Pk4230m. MN & JL climbed the lower 4000m summit and others turned around at 3900m.

31 August: we headed up the valley to recci the glacier and where a potential ABC could be, as an access point to a couple of the surrounding peaks we'd seen from the summit the day before.

1 September: We headed up to ABC and set up camp there which was some distance away and at an altitude of 3490m

2 September: From ABC TD, AC, RB & JL headed out and climbed Pk4235m. AN, HW, JV, JS & DW headed out to tackle a different peak but unfortunately turned around at 3950m.

3 September: From ABC AN, HW & DW headed up the west ridge of unclimbed Pk4220m, whilst TD, RB, AC & JL climbed the east ridge of the same Pk4220m

4 September: Everyone had a fun day on the glacier ice climbing and in the afternoon dismantled ABC and then headed down to BC.

5 September: Everyone had a wash and rest day relaxing at BC.

6 September: From BC Everyone headed out to climb unclimbed Pk4230 AN, MN & DW summited and returned to BC whilst TD, RB, AC & JM continued over the summit and down the south east ridge to bag an adjoining summit of unclimbed Pk4240m.

7 September: We dismantled BC and left this beautiful area and headed back towards Karakol following a similar route to which we drove in and stopped at what we called 'Little Switzerland' for a couple of nights to give us an afternoon and day climbing in a spot re recci'd on the way in last year.

8 September: Making a number of first ascent boulder problems on the beautiful boulders scattered around the stunning area we called 'Little Switzerland'.

9 September: We left Little Switzerland and headed back to Karakol

10 September: This was a long day back to Bishkek with a swim in Lake Issyk Kuk and then a stop at the felt shop to pick up some rugs and other felt goodies to take home with us which is always a treat at the end of a trip, hey Tom!

11 September: This was a day in Bishkek for everyone to visit the markets and cultural centres of the capital. AN, TD & MN also sorted through all the ISM equipment and packed it away ready for next years expedition.

12 September: An early start saw everyone heading home.

A very special thanks once again to Jason Sheldrake for capturing some amazing moments during this years expedition, with some of the many images here for you in the report. There were so many images this year that I wanted to make the report more about those moments captured than words describing the trip.

Adrian