Technical Alpine Ascents
Level 3 : Guided Climbing
This week of technical mountaineering is not tied to any particular area or peaks. The course has a simple aim - to give participants a great week of challenging alpine climbing on the finest routes of at least two different alpine valleys of the Swiss Valais, Bernese Oberland or Mt Blanc Massif.
Designed for people with previous alpine experience, the specific climbs and peaks that we attempt are decided upon after considering the alpine routes you have already done. This way we ensure that you will be in new and inspiring areas on routes which provide the right level of challenge.
Course Highlights
A guided climbing week of challenging technical alpine peaks and routes
Complete flexibility to climb where the weather and conditions are best
Price includes breakfasts and evening meals, vehicle transport and accommodation (excludes mechanical uplift*)
Expert guiding and instruction from experienced ISM Guides
Is This Course For Me?
This is a very open week of climbing and mountaineering focusing on the abilities of the group and where the weather and conditions are best in the Alps during thet wee. We try to deliver a mix of climbing both multi-pitch alpine rock routes and technical alpine mountaineering routes and summits.
Previous alpine climbing experience is necessary to at least ISM level 2, having had experience on more moderate 'classic' terrain, and want the challenge of climbing steeper routes and enjoying longer more adventurous mountain days out. Participants should ideally be climbing to grade V (British Very Severe, American 5.7) and have experience of climbing with boots and rucksack (although we may carry rock boots for some climbs). Experience climbing with two ice tools on moderate routes (Scottish grade II and III) is also necessary. Good fitness and stamina is essential.
Technical Alpine Ascents
We may climb a 4000m peak on this course; however the emphasis will be on climbing the finest routes in our chosen area at the right level of difficulty for course participants.
We climb on a low 2:1 guiding ratio, which gives us flexibility to match levels of experience and fitness within the group - and to tackle some challenging climbs. Routes attempted on this course can range from alpine grades PD+ to D and can include climbs that vary from short and technical, to those that are long and committing undertakings at altitude. We will explain the options at the course briefing and give you the chance to input into the final plan.
Please be very sure to detail on the booking form your previous experience and especially all alpine peaks climbed, so that we can plan the most suitable itinerary.
Course Content
We would typically choose to run this course outside of the areas where we tend to run our other Technical Ascents courses (i.e. Zermatt, Central Switzerland and central Oberland). We are happy to change climbing areas to achieve the best possible week’s climbing.
The list of routes we could choose from is almost endless. Here are a few possibilities:
Valais Alps
- Grand Cornier (3961m), S. ridge (AD+). Brilliant remote ridge.
- Dent de Tsalion (3589m), A long and exposed granite ridge with excellent climbing (V).
- Les Bouquetins (3779m), North face (AD+). Technical ice and rock climbing.
- Mont Blanc de Cheilon (3870m), traverse (AD). Mixed ridge climbing at its best.
- L’Evêque (3716m), SW Ridge (AD/IV+). Superb alpine rockroute.
- Mont Collon(3637m),WestRidge (AD).Technical ridge to a remarkable summit plateau.
- Grand Combin (4314m), Meitin (W) ridge (AD+). Mostly rock and mixed climbing to a final summit snow slope.
- Dent d’Hérens (4171m), East ridge (AD). A long glacial ascent and a fine mixed summit ridge.
Bernese Oberland
- Blüemlisalphorn (3663m), either by the classic NW ridge (AD), or by the N face (D) - a beautiful ice route in good conditions.
- Traverse of the Blüemlisalp chain Magnificent snow crest (AD) linking the summits of the Morgenhorn (3627m), the Wyssi Frau (3650m) and the Blüemlisalphorn (3663m).
- Fründenhorn (3368m), South West ridge (D). An excellent ridge climb with pitches up to IV+.
- Doldenhorn (3643m), arête Gallet (AD). A long, classic route on snow, rock and ice.
- Gspaltenhorn (3436m), NW ridge (AD-). Mixed climbing with an exciting rock crest leads to a great summit overlooking the highest north wall in the Oberland.
- Kingspitz (2621m), North face (V+). The classic route up an impressive peak - if your rock climbing is up to it!
Chamonix / Mont Blanc Massif
- Dent du Géant (4013m). A variant on the normal route (one pitch of V) avoids the crowds on this fantastic rock spire.
- Tour Ronde (3792m), North face (AD+). This classic route is an excellent introduction to north face ice routes.
- Mt Blanc du Tacul (4248m), Chèré couloir. A short but steep couloir with ice up to 80°.
- Mont Maudit (4463m), frontier (Kuffner) ridge (D). This ridge is an all time classic – a long mixed climb at high altitude.
- Aiguille du Moine (3412m), South ridge (D-). An excellent rock ridge with pitches to V.
- Aiguille du Chardonnet (3824m), Forbes arête (AD). Another classic mixed climb along a pinnacled ridge.
- Mont Dolent (3820m), Gallet ridge and traverse (AD). A more remote adventure away from the crowds. Mixed climbing to a great summit.
- Aiguilles Dorées (3519m), traverse (D). A long traverse on rock, ice and mixed ground.
*Please note that this course normally runs without taking mechanical uplift and is priced accordingly. If uplift is taken (with agreement of course participants) it is charged as an extra.
Sample Programme
This is very much a sample programme of this course as any number of different combinations of peaks and climbs are possible.
Sunday evening
The course starts with participants and guides meeting at 6.45pm at the hotel in Leysin. This is the chance for the guides to give you a thorough briefing and discuss the detailed plan for the week with you.
Monday
The plan for the week might start with an ascent of the Miroir d'Argentine, which is a classic alpine rock route 14 pitches long ascending a huge limestone face high above Villars in the Rhone Valley. Once down we'd drive down and across to the other side of the Rhone valley and up into the small mountain village of Arolla, staying the night here.
Tuesday
A superb expedition for the next two days is the traverse of the Grand Cornier (3733m). The South Ridge of this peak is a fantastic route in a wild and remote setting, climbed from the Dent Blanch bivouac hut. This is situated in an incredible position on the col underneath the north ridge of the Dent Blanche. We sort the bivvy food and gear, drive the short distance up and into Ferpècle, and make the 4/5 hour hike to the bivvy hut. This is a big day so we make a good ‘alpine start’ in the morning.
Wednesday
The climb starts straight from the hut and is mostly rock, so we don’t need to make a pre-dawn start! The difficulties are mostly on rock (pitches to IV) and the ridge itself is a very exposed and narrow crest. From the summit we descend the tricky rock crest of the North West Ridge, then over mixed ground onto the upper Moiry glacier, which gives a long but easy descent to the Moiry hut.
Thursday
After a relaxing start to the day we leave the Moiry hut and head down and across the Moiry Glacier and then hike up over the Col du Tsate and back down into the Arola valley to Les Hauderes and back to our vehicle in Ferpecle. Back early afternoon we would relax, shower and have food in Arolla, before then heading up the short hike to the privately owned Tsa Hut about an hours walk above Arolla. This hut gives great views across the Arolla valley but also access to a beautiful alpine rock route called the Dent de Tsalion.
Friday
After a short hike form the Tsa Hut, the Dent de Tsalion arete is a superb alpine rock route on excellent rock leading up to Aiguille de la T'sa which is the obvious 'mini Matterhorn' rock pinnacle and obvious point on the skyline seen from the Arolla valley and other high points. After our ascent of this fine alpine rock route we make our way down the other side, skirting around the Bertol hut and back down to Arolla. Once in Arolla we then drive back to Leysin for our last night's meal.
Saturday morning
Breakfast is included before departure (or this is a rest day if you are continuing to another course).
Course Dates & Booking
Meet the Team
Christian Edelstam
IFMGA Swedish Mountain Guide
Christian likes exploring the mountains in any mountain range and particularly loves the solitude and wilderness of northern Scandinavia.
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Christian Türk
IFMGA Swedish Mountain Guide
Christian was born in Sweden and had his first skiing experience in Austria as a youngster.
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Matt Stygall
IFMGA British Mountain Guide
Originally from the flatland of Norfolk, Matt soon escaped to the highlands of Scotland, to cut his teeth on the Scottish winter climbing scene there. He then worked full time at Plas Y Brenin in North Wales…
Read MoreVital Information
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