Technical Alpine Skills

The Technical Alpine Skills course is a natural follow-on from our Classic Alpin-ISM course or for those people who have gained experience on any of our Level 3 Alpin-ISM weeks or elsewhere on similar instructional courses. Our aim is to build on your past climbing experience and develop these skills on more technical ground at the alpine AD grade and above.

Throughout the week you’ll climb a number of technical alpine routes and peaks in the Swiss Valais, gaining valuable experience and a greater understanding of more technical terrain and the skills needed to operate safely and efficiently on that terrain.

To operate on long alpine routes of AD and above safely and maximize the amount of leaning, we feel that it is important to operate on a low ratio of 1 guide to 2 climbers.

Who the course will suit

This course will suit people with previous alpine experience (ideally gained on one of ISM’s Level 3 courses) who would be happy following rock at a minimum grade IV+ (Hard Severe) in rock shoes and with experience of climbing in mountain boots carrying a rucksack. Competence with ice axe and crampons is essential. Although all skills will be reviewed and refreshed, participants should have knowledge of the equipment and rope work involved in outdoor rock climbing. A very good level of fitness is needed as the alpine routes climbed will be long and demanding.

Peaks and routes that can be climbed on this course (other than those in Typical Programme)

• L’Évêque (3716m) The SW Ridge (AD+) is the classic rock climb of the area having sustained difficulties at grades IV and IV+. Exposed climbing on perfect gneiss.
• Mont Blanc de Cheilon (3869m) E-W traverse (AD). A classic outing with enjoyable climbing on perfect gneiss as well as all types of mixed terrain and a steep abseil.
• La Ruinette (3875m) The NE Ridge (D) is a demanding day from the Dix hut and involves a very long rock crest leading to a spectacular summit tower, from which the views of the Gd Combin group are breathtaking.

Typical course programme

Saturday evening. The course starts with participants and guides meeting at 7.00pm at Le Grand Chalet hotel in Leysin. This isthe chance for the guides to give you a thorough briefing on the details of the course, sort out any particular personal equipment requirements and for you to ask any questions that you may have!

Sunday.

The first day will be based up on the Leysin Tours. We’ll choose multi-pitch rock routes at the appropriate level and pull together all the skills that you already have and move the learning on a step. We’ll coach you on your personal climbing and develop your existing skills on multi-pitch ground, building your confidence and understanding when climbing on this ground.

Monday.

The Mirroir d’Argentine. This day is all about climbing a long multi-pitch alpine rock route with the emphasis on climbing with good pace, purpose & efficiency. Your experience from the day, apart from the fantastic climbing, views and the summit, will be that you’ll also gain a greater understanding and have developed your skills to deal with the longer alpine rock routes you’ll climb in the high mountains.

Tuesday.

Moiry Glacier. We’ll spend today on the Moiry Glacier developing your crampon and ice axe skills, from flat walking through to moderate angled ice using the one axe to steep vertical ice and the use of two axes. Being comfortable and to have a good technique on the ice is so important to cover the steeper ground quickly, efficiently and with the least amount of effort. We’ll also cover roping up for glacier travel, the placing and extraction of ice screws, belays, reading the glacier and crevasse rescue.
You will stay the night in the small mountain village of Grimentz

Wednesday.

Up to the Mountet Hut. After the last three days, you’ll enjoy a more leisurely start with a short drive up to Zinal from Grimentz and then a long hut walk up the beautiful Zinal valley to the Mountet Hut. The views from this hut are stunning with the north face and the north east ridge of the majestic Dent Blanche rising up from the Glacier du Grand Cornier, the Grand Cornier itself over to the west, the Ober Gablehorn to the south and the Zinalrothorn to the east. An amazing panorama of some of the most stunning peaks in the Swiss Valais. A talk in the afternoon/evening will cover general topics such as glaciology, the changing weather, alpine huts, the day ahead etc.

Thursday.

North Ridge of the Zinalrothorn 4221m. A long day up from the Mountet hut and east over the Glacier du Mountet towards the snowy ‘arête du blanc’ which accesses the north ridge. The north ridge in itself is relatively short, but the glacial approach, the climb up the snow arête and the technical nature of the ridge and its sharp pinnacles, will pull together all the skills learnt and give you an amazing high mountain adventure of technical AD ground in both ascent and descent.

Friday.

The last day of the course will depend on the group and how people are feeling but behind the hut is a lovely granite rock peak called ‘Le Mammouth’. The granite is amazing with a host of short and long routes scattered across its south face of varying difficulties. The south ridge also offers a longer but easy way of ascent to the summit. You may also want to cover again some crevasse rescue or just descend and do some rock climbing on the way back to Leysin.
For the course it’s good to have this last day in hand in-case the weather is better on the Friday for our ascent of the Zinalrothorn, which is something you’ll also need to factor in for your trips and future weeks in the Alps if operating independently, which we hope some of you will do having completed this course.

Saturday morning.

Breakfast at the hotel is included before departure.

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