Virgin Peaks of the Tien Shan (Celestial Mountains)
2010 EXPEDITION - AT BASHI, TORUGART & SON KUL
Our Virgin Peaks Expedition this year will range over more
of Kyrgyzstan than usual, climbing in THREE fantastic areas
of the Tien Shan and briefly visiting another new area with
great climbing potential. We aim to be climbing by the 3rd
day of the trip and hopefully standing on our first summit
by day 5.
Only since the collapse of the Soviet Union have western mountaineers
been permitted to visit this vast mountain range in Central
Asia (which extends for 1500kms E to W, spanning the border
between China and the Kyrgyz Republic). ISM has led the field
in this exploration, making first ascents of around 50
important peaks (many of which are now recorded on
published maps) as well as lesser peaks. At the same time we
have gained
unrivalled knowledge and experience of this magnificent mountain
wilderness. For mountaineers who love the thrill of exploring
and the challenge of making first ascents, these 'Celestial
Mountains' compare favourably to any in the world.
The Tien Shan are at a similar latitude to the Pyrenees, so
the peaks feel much higher than those of a comparable altitude
in the Himalaya or Andes (where the level of glaciation is
up to 1000m higher). Their greater remoteness and untapped
mountaineering potential gives many parts of the Tien Shan
a unique attraction. The areas we visit have a variety
of objectives, including many less technical peaks which can
be
climbed by
people with normal alpine skills and a good level of fitness.
THE PLAN FOR 2010
From Bishkek, the capital, we drive SE to the provincial town
of Naryn then along the northern flank of the At Bashi range
to one of Kyrgyzstan's most ancient archaeological sites -
Tash Rabat - which also happens to have exciting climbing potential
on a series of limestone cliffs and domes. We climb for
an afternoon here, refreshing skills and sorting out compatible
climbing teams. The area would appear to offer everything from
technical faces to easy ridge scrambles. We will spend a
night at the
ITMC
yurt camp at Tash Rabat, next to the 'caravanserai'. This is
at an
altitude
of
3000m and will gain us valuable acclimatisation.
Next we drive around in 3-4 hours to the southern flank of
the AT BASHI range. Truly one of the 'hidden
gems' of the Tien Shan, the range extends for 100kms and has
only seen a couple of mountaineering expeditions so far (one
by ISM in 2007). All along the range are glaciers ringed by
unclimbed peaks, and we will choose one with easy access to
set up Base Camp. We will have about 5 days to climb here,
operating from an Advanced Base Camp high on the glacier. The
picture below gives an idea of the range of possible objectives!
Now we have to cross the 'steppes' (high altitude open grasslands
in a broad flat valley) to our second major mountain range
- the TORUGART-TOO - which lies just to the
west of the Torugart Pass into Kashgar. It takes just a day
to transfer areas and to set up our new base camp. ISM teams
were the first to explore this range in 2007, when we
climbed above two of its glaciers and briefly explored a third
glacier system to the east. This is where we will set up our
Advanced
Base Camp.
 |
The glacier is an impressive place, taking the form of a long
canyon and having an unclimbed 5000m peak at its head. Lower
down on the east side are more technical, rocky
and mixed peaks, while the west side of the glacier is bounded
by the massive mountain wall of Mustyr (5108m),
a multi-summited ridge bristling with impressive unclimbed
lines. There is a
huge range of objectives here and by now we
should
be feeling
fully
acclimatised
and ready for some challenging ascents. We will have 4-5 days
climbing from ABC before dropping back to Base Camp, paying
respects to the local Kyrgyz and setting off for the final
stage of the trip.
SON KUL CANYON
NW of Naryn is one of Kyrgyzstan's famous lakes
- Son Kul. The region surrounding it is a magnificent 'canyonlands'
of massive limestone gorges with the biggest, Son Kul Canyon,
being over 900m deep. The whole region has huge potential as
an alpine rock/big wall climbing area. ISM teams climbed
the first routes here in 2008 and added 6 more superb routes
last year. Being lower and warmer, it is an idyllic spot to
visit after time spent camping high in
the
snow.
The
rock
routes done so far at Son Kul have been up to 700m long and
in the grade range of V- (Mild Very Severe) to VI+ (British
E2). Huge scope exists for both harder and easier routes.
Many of the climbs are full day undertakings but there
are excellent shorter options for a more relaxed day
or a half-day.
The hiking in this area is also
outstanding, the canyon next
to Son
Kul
offering
one of the best gorge walks in the world (passing beneath
immense walls and narrowing to 3m at times). This gives
another option for anyone not wishing to climb every day. Nightly
camp fires under starry skies are another of the attractions
of
Son Kul!
After climbing here we head back to Bishkek,
usually stopping at a Kyrgyz handicraft centre en route to see
the art of felt making, and look at a range of modern products
as well as a museum of antique items from the history of the
Kyrgyz people. From here it is just a few hour's drive back
to Bishkek.
LOGISTICS. We will be using
6-wheel-drive and 4-wheel-drive vehicles to reach Base Camps,
which will
be as comfortable
as we can make them, with a tent per person, cook tent and
a comfortable mess tent. We take our own fresh
meat (which usually walks in by itself) but vegetarians
are also well catered-for. The standard of Base Camp cooking
is usually excellent. There is no need to bring any supplementary
food but some people like to have a supply of muesli / energy
bars in reserve or the odd treat of chocolate etc.
SECURITY is an important
consideration for all our trips. It is a sad fact that today
many of the
world's finest mountain
areas are conflict zones. Despite political upheavals
Kyrgyzstan remains a safe, democratic country with tourism
as one of
its main
industries. Access is quick and convenient with direct
flights from Heathrow to Almaty then a short coach transfer
to our hotel in Bishkek. This makes it an ideal trip for people
who want to take part in an adventurous expedition to the greater
ranges
within
the
time
span of a ‘normal’ holiday.
OBJECTIVES
and TECHNICAL STANDARDS. We climb in small teams,
each with a guide, tackling peaks in lightweight, alpine-style
(no fixed ropes - everyone climbs
the ground for him/herself). We use porter help to set up
Advanced Base Camps so that we are as fresh as possible for
the climbing. Some
peaks may be possible as day climbs from ABC
while the bigger peaks may require two or three-day forays
and camps high on the mountain.
People wishing to join the expedition must
have alpine climbing experience (either gained at ISM or elsewhere)
and be conversant with the skills demanded by alpine climbing.
As there is a great variety of objectives at different levels
of difficulty in this area, the climbing grade of expedition
members is less important than fitness/stamina, hardiness,
enthusiasm and a strong taste for adventure. If you are keen
to join the expedition but unsure whether your experience is
adequate please call Pat Littlejohn (expedition
leader) at the UK office (+44 (0) 1766 890441 or email patlittlejohn@alpin-ism.com
Independent climbing teams. Sometimes it
is possible for experienced mountaineers to join our expeditions
and
operate as independent
climbing teams. They share all logistics such as accommodation,
transport, base camp facilities etc. but must be self-contained
above Base Camp with regard to ropes, mountaineering hardware,
tents and cooking equipment
(we provide gas cylinders). The trip price is adjusted to exclude
the guiding element. Anyone interested should contact Pat to
discuss (details above).
Independent Expeditions to the Tien Shan. ISM provides
an advisory and support service for any self-contained group
wishing to organise an expedition to attempt unclimbed
peaks in the Tien Shan. We advise on suitable areas/objectives,
agree the itinerary and arrange all support services needed
for the trip. Please contact Pat to
discuss (details above).
Click here for
Itinerary and Details
Click
here for Expedition
Booking Form (print and post)
2009 Expedition Report
2007 & 2008 Expeditions
- see News & Reports
Mountain Info Report
Article, High Magazine
Borkoldoy
Report in CLIMB Magazine Feb 2006
2006 Expedition Report - 2006 Gallery
2005 Expedition Report - 2005 Gallery
2004 Expedition Report - 2004
Gallery
2003 Expedition Report - Gallery
2002 Expedition Report
