Classic Alpin-ISM

On our Summits & Skills 4000m course we teach all the basic skills of alpinism. The Classic Alpin-ISM course takes you to the next level, progressing to more advanced skills and applying them to a wide variety of high mountain terrain. The aim of the course is to build up competence and experience by giving participants as much opportunity as possible to lead the rope (under instruction from the guide) whilst enjoying a full and satisfying week of mountaineering on high alpine peaks.

Several alpine areas offer suitable objectives for this course including Trient, the Grand Combin region, the Mt Blanc de Cheilon group and the Évêque/Mont Brulé group. These regions offer all types of alpine climbing – snow and ice slopes of varying angles, rocky ridges, exposed arêtes and mixed ground. We aim to give you a very varied climbing week, coaching the skills needed for all types of terrain. We also do our best to ensure that you will be climbing peaks and routes that are new to you, so please list your experience carefully on the booking form.

Safe technique on glacier approaches is another important part of this course, as glaciers are changing rapidly with global warming and generally becoming more challenging to negotiate safely, being steeper, icier and more crevassed. Judgement of prevailing conditions is more crucial than ever as guidebooks and maps struggle to keep pace with the changing mountain environment, and adapting technique to cope with this situation is now a vital part of safe alpinism.

Who the course will suit

This course will suit people with previous alpine experience (ideally gained on ISM’s Summits & Skills 4000m course) who would be happy following rock at grade III (UK Very Difficult) in mountain boots carrying a rucksack. Experience with ice axe and crampons is essential. A solid background in Scottish winter climbing and rock climbing in the UK would also be suitable preparation for this course. Although all skills will be reviewed and refreshed, participants should have some knowledge of the equipment and rope work involved in outdoor climbing. A good level of fitness is needed as all the peaks involve substantial mountain days.

Peaks and routes that can be climbed on this course

Valais Alps

• Mont Brulé (3585m) By the NE Ridge (PD+) or West Ridge (PD), either giving a long and exposed ridge climb with difficulties mainly on snow & ice but with a steep rocky section on the NE Ridge.
• Pointes d’Oren (3525m) Complete traverse over 4 summits (PD+). This delightful traverse of a classic alpine ridge is partly a snow crest and partly rocky, with one or two challenging steps.
• L’Évêque (3716m) The normal route is a classic of the area at PD but can be more difficult if icy. A superb elegant summit.
• Petit Mont Collon (3555m) The normal route on the S Flank is excellent in snowy conditions and leads to a choice of 2 summits, each of which has technical interest (PD/PD+).
• Mont Blanc de Cheilon (3869m) Normal route from the Dix hut (PD). A popular classic having great scrambling and easy climbing on perfect gneiss as well as an enjoyable section on snow, making for a varied alpine day.
• La Luette (3648m) A great little training/warm-up peak offering several routes on its east flank from F+ to PD.
• La Ruinette (3875m) The SW Ridge (PD) is a long day from the Chanrion or Dix huts and involves an equal mix of snow and rock climbing. The summit views of the Gd Combin group are breathtaking.
• Tournelon Blanc (3707m) The North Ridge (PD) gives mixed climbing with a fine snow crest to finish.
• Combin de Corbassière (3715m) The South Ridge at PD is a regional classic and one of the most enjoyable rock ridges anywhere.

Trient area (Mt Blanc Massif)

• Aiguille d’Arpette Beautiful rock ridge above the Orny hut. PD+ on perfect granite.
• Aiguille du Tour (3544m). The north-south traverse at F+/PD is a great outing on this very popular peak.
• Tete Blanche and Petite Fourche (3520m). Combining the NW ridges of each of these peaks gives a most enjoyable outing with some technical interest (PD+).
• Aiguille d'Orny Great in early season, a snow couloir leading to a spectactlar rock tower (IV).

Typical course programme

Saturday evening.

The course starts with participants and guides meeting at 7.00pm at Le Grand Chalet hotel in Leysin. This is the chance for the guides to give you a thorough briefing on the details of the course, sort out any particular personal equipment requirements and for you to ask any questions that you may have!

Sunday.

The beautiful limestone peaks above Leysin provide an ideal venue to practice and perfect rope and climbing techniques. A climbing day on the Leysin Tours refreshing skills, acquainting the guide with your climbing standard and covering all the ropework and climbing techniques that will be used throughout the week in the high mountains.

Monday.

Drive to Arolla, park near the village then walk up the valley and ascend to the Haut Glacier d’Arolla. This is a dry glacier for much of its length but after an hour’s walking on ice it is often necessary to rope up for a snowy section reach to the Refuge Bouquetins, a fantastic little hut which is sometimes self-catering and sometimes has a guardian.

Tuesday.

Our route takes the glacier then an ice slope to the Col de Tsa de Tsan, above which rears the NE ridge of Mt Brulé. We climb the steep rock crest to reach the spacious summit then begin the long traverse along the narrow West ridge, crossing the summit of Point Kurz (3498m) before descending a long snow/ice slope to the glacier and a circuit back to the hut.

Wednesday.

Today we ascend beneath the imposing E Face of L’Évêque until the glacier steepens and ice slopes lead up to the Col de L’Évêque. From here it is a relatively short snow climb to the first summit of the Pointes d’Oren, from which a beautiful and very photogenic mixed ridge leads westwards over several more summits until it is possible to drop down and cross the Col du Petit Mont Collon and traverse the huge, flat Mt Collon Glacier to the Vignettes hut.

Thursday.

To tackle Petit Mont Collon we have to descend a little on the Glacier d’Otemma until we can climb up to a hanging glacier on the peak itself. Snow fields then a spur lead up to the saddle between the summits from which an interesting mixed ridge leads is taken to the higher (E) summit at 3555m. This is a fine peak and seldom climbed since the classic North Face lost its permanent ice cover. We descend by the same route to the Vignettes hut.

Friday.

The elegant spire of L’Évêque is our objective today. A long steady glacier ascent gets us into a snowy bay between L’Évêque and the equally impressive Mitre de L’Évêque. The first part of the summit climb is on snow early in the season but is often an ice climb later, making it much more demanding. Above this, climbing on steep rocks takes us to an easier ridge leading to an airy summit with fabulous views all round. A careful descent by the same route gets us back to the glacier, which by now will be softer and more serious, demanding good ropework for a safe passage to the hut and back down to the valley . We return to Leysin later where a meal at the Grand Chalet is closely followed by drinks and chat at the Lynx bar.

Saturday morning.

Breakfast at the hotel is included before departure.

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